The Ghats of Vrindavan

The Ghats of Vrindavan.

Kasi Ghat, Chir Ghat, & many others.

From the other side of the City, on the road getting the Delhi janta to the Angrezon wala temple- getting a commute to the original side of the city is a tough task indeed!! Not many go there anyways!!

So, we found two seats in the shared Auto Rikshaw ride, along with some saintly wide eyed types!! & then asked the driver if he could take us to the ghats!! Odd request indeed!!-) & that too when we asked him to be hired all by us & for the journey back too!! Yes, he could do it & would show us around too!!

& the walk ( drive in partial!!) began as soon as he could drop off the other occupants of the rickshaw!! Passing through the new layer of opulent temple & ashrams, in architectural style that competed with each other & all others, the ride circumvented the now usual visting temples of the city- the bankey bihari & the angrezon ka temple.Companionship be established- he told us how “Bankey bihari ji” took care of all of vrindavanites, & so honesty was easy to come for them!!

The first stop was the magnificent red sandstone temple of Madan Mohan- elder to Lord Krishna & the arbitrator of all litigations!! This, he told us, was the main temple of vrindavan- once upon a time!! & right next to it was the original route to the Bankey Bihari ji!! Alas, no one takes it now- since they come by road from Delhi!! – as against the boat by the Yamuna river? Yes!! Ah- he proudly tells us now- he is a local!! & then passing by bumpy stretches of river front architecture , truncated from the river by a new road in between, we stop to take the walk to the kassi Ghat!!Of course there was the Chir ghat in the Ghat on the way- where Krishna used to steal the Clothes off the gopis in the river- & yes that was the tree where he used to take them on!! A tree that old?!! Yes, of course- he told us!! Well, a lone tree on a desolate & truncated Ghat- we better believe his belief!!

Ah, & the river next to the walk!! Krishna ki pyari- Yamuna!! A thousand boats moored & countless rituals around- we reached the Kassi Ghat!! & You go to see it you want to see public architecture to a river front!! Sublime sandstones, facing the temples, havelis, ashrams etc. etc. in the Rajashtani Rajput style, mixed just enough with inspirations from Bengal!! The standing Chatris in desolation, the unscathed moorings in stone extending to the river & the very public continuity through all of these!! Keep walking!!-)

The Ghats are not desolate really!! There are the wanderers & the monkeys!! The wanderers are most possibly those who have left their homes & the monkeys are local!! BTW, our guide informs us- there is no dearth of food in vrindavan- what with the no. of Bhandaras being held everywhere!! – One reason why so many wanderers stay here!! & the Ghats aren’t really so desolate!! River Aarti is done everyday & the locals from the region come in nos for river rituals!! & there is even an lawyer from Delhi ( vakil sab) who has bought some property on the river front & is renovating it!!

Sit down & experience it!!

But we have to be back!! Quick walk back- stories of the ghat where Krishna slayed the river serpent & many others!! We are back in the Ricksahw!! He wants to take us to more of the inner city- but we settle for next time!! & then he suddenly tells us that he is a Muslim!! That all Auto wallhs in vrindavan are muslims!! What?!! Then the bankey Bihari kripa?!! Of course, it is there for all- he says!! He sees no problem with that!! BTW, he tells us, there is a dragah right next to the temple!! Once upon a time, according to him, it had more prominence!! & now the temple has!! How could I have missed this?!! Well- the crowds- he guesses!!

& then there is anyways Mosques in Mathura where they go to!! & can eat non vegetarian food there!! It is all Bankey Bihari ki Kripa!!

Ah!! Wish we had more time!! Next time!!!